Masterpieces and a Hidden Garden

The Louvre Museum in Paris is the largest art museum in the world and one of the greatest cultural institutions in human history — a former royal palace whose vast galleries contain some 380,000 works of art spanning 8,000 years of human civilization, from prehistoric artifacts and ancient Egyptian masterpieces to the greatest paintings of the Renaissance, Baroque, and neoclassical periods, including Leonardo da Vinci's Mona Lisa, the Venus de Milo, and Winged Victory of Samothrace, making it the single most concentrated collection of cultural achievement anywhere on earth. The museum's history spans eight centuries — from its origins as a medieval fortress built by Philip II in the late 12th century, through its transformation into a royal palace under Francis I and subsequent centuries of expansion and embellishment, to its revolutionary-era conversion into a public museum in 1793, making it one of the first great public art museums in the world. The iconic glass pyramid designed by I.M. Pei, added to the main courtyard in 1989, caused controversy when it was built but is now beloved as the principal entrance to the museum and as a symbol of the productive dialogue between ancient history and modern architecture that defines the Louvre's character as an institution. The Mona Lisa, Leonardo da Vinci's small panel painting of an unidentified Florentine noblewoman, is the most visited work of art in the world — a crowd of hundreds gathers around it at any hour of the museum's operation, drawn by a combination of genuine artistic quality, centuries of scholarly attention, and the irresistible pull of its reputation as the most famous painting ever made. With over 9 million visitors annually, the Louvre is the most visited museum in the world.

Tucked directly behind the Louvre and laid out in the 17th century for Cardinal Richelieu before passing to the royal family, the Palais-Royal Garden is a rectangular formal garden enclosed on three sides by uniform arcaded galleries that once housed some of Paris's most fashionable shops, gambling dens, and cafes, making the complex a center of Parisian social and political life in the 18th century, including gatherings in its cafes that helped spark the storming of the Bastille in 1789. Today the arcades hold a quieter mix of antique dealers, perfumers, and small boutiques, while the garden itself, lined with clipped lime trees, a central fountain, and rose beds, offers one of the most sheltered and peaceful green spaces in central Paris, largely unknown to visitors who pass right by its unassuming entrances. At the courtyard nearest the Comedie-Francaise, the sculptor Daniel Buren's 1986 installation of black-and-white striped columns of varying heights, known as Les Deux Plateaux, remains a favorite spot for children to climb and photographers to frame, a piece of contemporary public art set against 17th-century stone.